Friday, September 28, 2007

Larapinta Walk

Photos
After returning to Alice, I joined the start of a half day trip to various West Macdonnell Range sites, piking at Standley Chasm so that I could walk back to Alice over 3 days and 67km. The rest of the gumbies bussed it back via Simpsons Gap.
Standley Chasm
Standley Chasm is one of the surprising number of permanent water sources on the Range. It was named after Ida Standley, who taught the children of mixed descent originally in Alice, then at Standley Chasm once they were booted out of town. It was then one of the first missions to return the land back to Aboriginal people, although not the original inhabitants. It has since been successfully managed as a tourist destination and kiosk.
My first night began with a cool drink from the kiosk, and then a cool drink from the heavens. Being a desert, rain is pretty rare in these parts, and winter rain is even more uncommon. So I spent my first night listening to the rain pitter and/or patter on my tent.
Next day I arose to cool temps, and began my march to a more populated destination. The chasm was rocky and narrow, and the surrounding terrain was rocky and steep. Spinifex grew in the flatter areas, and there were a number of trees around the chasm. Due to the overnight rain, I came across a bit of water in the creek. At my first major stop (Millers Flat), I came across two fellow walkers, and we exchanged rants on the cold weather. From there the track split - I took the high road via a 1000+ masl ridge, which offer fine views - chilled. This ridge soon descended to another, quite large water hole ("Fish Hole"). This was big enough to due a few laps in - except it was too cold. Soon after, I arrived at the Jay Creek campsite, where despite being the lone walker, three other guys were busy building a new shelter for the campsite. Once they finished their work, I enjoyed a few beers with them, along with a raging fire and a few shots of Jaegermeister. Slept well that night.

Fish Hole
The next day was a bit longer, but much flatter. It was very easy and enjoyable desert walking, cool but sunny. I met no one until the final campsite.
Simpsons Gap
The final night was spent at a popular tourist spot, where gumbies appear late afternoon and early morning to try and spot the elusive, but non-gumbified black footed wallaby. These wallabies are quite shy, but come down to dry if everyone is quiet. Once the brats left, I managed to see a few hoppers. That night, a dingo stole my baby water supply. It chewed right through the nozzle on my Chateau Cardboard water holder. Took me a while to find the damn thing.

Camping at Simpsons Gap
The final day involved a nice jaunt along some beautiful ridge lines, providing great views of the surrounding plains, and over towards Alice Springs. I came across a huge party of Australian Geographic invalids at one stage. Those guides must have patience...
Finish
The official walk ended at the Telegraph station, where there is permanent water in the Todd River (but is definitely not a "Spring"). Large numbers of people were enjoying the sunny winter's afternoon, ignoring the new territory liquor laws (although, there may be official blindness to drinking at this sight). I followed the river all the way back to town, where I returned to the same room and the same bed, next to the same fuckwit who snored like a freight train.

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